Bump ESP-IDF version

[orhun]

I investigated this a bit last night:

• Currently we use v5.2.3, that's a bit outdated compared to the available versions listed here.
• The esp-idf template repository picks between v5.3 and v5.2 here: https://github.com/esp-rs/esp-idf-template/blob/master/cargo/.cargo/config.toml#L15
• On Arch Linux, v5.2.3 fails to build with a missing symlink error:

.embuild/espressif/tools/esp-clang/16.0.1-fe4f10a809/esp-clang/bin/clang: error while loading shared libraries: libicuuc.so.76: cannot open shared object file: No such file or directory

Installing icu76 for compatibility fixes the error.

• I also tried v5.4. It builds fine but the firmware immediately crashes in main at Peripherals::take call.
• v5.5 does not build at all. It throws a cursed autogenerated code error.